S B 

Wot 



I LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. § 

i 

I UNITED STATES OF AMERICA- I 



THE AET 

OF 

PROMOTING THE GROWTH 

OF THE 

®ucttrot>n* an& Mtlm ; 

IN 

A SERIES OF DIRECTIONS 

FOR THE BEST MEANS TO BE ADOPTED 

IN BRINGING THEM TO A 

COMPLETE STATE OF PERFECTION. 



By THOMAS WAT KINS, 

MAN'Y YEARS FOREMAN "WITH MR. GRANGE, OP HACKNEY. 



A NEW EDITION. 



LONDON: 

HENRY WRIGHT, 
AGRICULTURAL AND SPORTING LIBRARY, 
51, HAYMARKET. 



CONTENTS. 



The Cucumber Seed-bed for October Page 1 

The Fruiting* Frame for early Plants 14 

The Seed-bed for January 43 

On the Culture of the late Cucumber 46 

On the Hand-glass Cucumber 51 

Dimensions of the Boxes and Lights for early and 

late Cucumbers 59 

On the Culture of early and late Melons 65 



Dimensions of the Boxes and Lights for ditto, . . • 83 



\ 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



The author begs to inform the purchasers of 
this work, that it was originally his intention to 
have given an engraving of the particular 
description of cucumber and melon, which he 
has been so successful in bringing to a state of 
perfection ; and, in fact, a plate was executed, at 
a considerable expense, for that purpose. Find- 
ing, however, that although accurate in its 
representation of fine fruit, it did not pourtray 
the difference, nor convey the precise idea of 
those qualities which constitute the superiority 
of the author's ; and aware that such would 
have been obvious to every experienced gar- 
dener, the design was necessarily abandoned, 
trusting, that as it was merely intended for an 
embellishment, its deficiency will not render the 
work less valuable to the profession. 



lirtfacc 



Having, when young, imbibed a particular 
inclination to study the culture of the cucum- 
ber and melon, under the direction of my father, 
whose character as an early framer was in high 
repute, I assiduously tried every experiment 
which was calculated to improve upon his sys- 
tem, by bringing them to a more complete 
state of perfection. 

In marking the progress of their growth, I 
usually committed to writing those plans which 
I had found to have been productive of benefi- 
cial effects. The result of these remarks has 
proved the compilation of the following treatise, 
undertaken at the request of several horticul- 



X PREFACE. 

turists, who have expressed their desire to 
become acquainted with the process of my mode 
of cultivation. 

Considering it superfluous to enlarge this 
work by unnecessary or controversal obser- 
vations, I have confined myself entirely to those 
directions, upon which I have uniformly acted ; 
and have endeavoured to reduce them into 
as plain and simple a form as possible ; at 
the same time observing to omit nothing which 
can be of utility in this difficult and hitherto 
imperfectly understood branch of horticulture. 

Several gardeners, who are now very eminent 
in their profession, have placed themselves under 
my tuition, and I flatter myself are perfectly 
satisfied that the instruction they received, was 
fully adequate to the compensation required; 
and perfectly convinced them of the superiority 



PREFACE. Xi 

of my mode of culture. I here pledge myself, 
that the advice given to such practitioners is 
contained in the following directions. 

My principal object in the different experi- 
ments I have tried, has always been to discover 
an easy, as well as a certain method of maturing 
these delicate plants, and, in consequence, have 
avoided, as much as possible, any artificial 
means that might be attended with difficulty or 
expense. 

The only writer I know upon this subject, with 
the exception of Abercrombie, whose system is 
now totally exploded, is Mr. M'Phale, gardener 
to Lord Hawkesbury. This gentleman published 
a treatise in the year 1795, in which he stre- 
nuously recommends brick pits for cucumbers 
and melons, as far superior to the dung bed. 
It will be obvious, however, to every person who 

b2 



Xii PREFACE. 

has perused that work, that the plan was 
adopted merely through deficiency of know- 
ledge in the proper management of the dung 
bed ; for Mr. M c Phail asserts, that upon first 
attempting to produce early cucumbers in Lord 
Hawkesbury's garden, he completely failed, and 
was, in consequence, induced to apply to some 
horticulturist in the neighbourhood, to whom 
he paid a gratuity of five guineas for his 
instruction. The principal thing he appears to 
have been taught, was to keep the burning heat 
of the dung about the roots of the plants down 
by the continual application of water into the 
bed ; which, however, he found insufficient to 
preserve them in a thriving state, throughout the 
winter months. This caused him to assert that 
it was out of the power of any person to keep a 
dung bed sweet, and consequently impracticable 
to rear them at that time of the year. To this 
I have only to observe, that the following 



PREFACE. Xlii 

directions will prove a contradiction ; for if they 
are strictly attended to, no fear need be enter- 
tained of their vigorous growth, either from the 
premature season, or the inclemeney of the 
weather. 

In December and January, although their 
health is certain, I must allow that they do not 
grow so fast is in other months ; and this is the 
particular time when difficulty is experienced by 
those who are unacquainted with the proper 
means to be adopted, although, perhaps, their 
efforts may have been attended with far more 
trouble than the rules here prescribed. 

The dung bed is certainly of the greatest 
importance both in the culture of the cucumber 
and melon; and want of knowledge in the 
management is generally the cause of the loss 
of the plants in the winter season, by the 



XIV PREFACE 

settlement of a cold moisture upon them, which 
cannot be removed without assistance from the 
sun : particular attention, therefore, to the 
directions given upon that point is highly 
necessary ; indeed, it cannot be too strongly 
impressed on the mind of the horticulturist that 
upon this greatly depends the success of his 
endeavours to mature them to any degree of 
perfection. 

In the remaaks upon preserving the plants 
from a cold moisture, in the most inclement 
weather, I have called to assistance what may be 
technically termed an artificial sun ; and as this 
most material point may be perfectly understood 
I shall here describe it more particularly. 

Keep the bed always wrapped up to nearly 

the top of the box with hay, straw, or any kind 
of sweet litter; observing that hay, however 



PREFACE. XV 

damaged, is certainly preferable ; this will have 
the desired effect in promoting a top heat, and 
obviating the difficulty above-mentioned, in 
keeping the plants perfectly dry. 

To those who are unacquainted with the 
management of a dung bed, a brick one cer- 
tainly appears more advantageous, in being 
attended with less trouble to the horticulturist, 
though infinitely with more expense, both in the 
building and consumption of dung : this, how- 
ever, is a mistaken idea, for nothing certainly 
can be more congenial to the growth of either 
the cucumber or melon than a sweet steam heat : 
this essential requisite, which may always be 
obtained by the process hereafter described, can 
be but partially promoted in brick pits ; for 
although water, in its necessary application, may 
create a steam heat, it soon evaporates ; and 
the heat of the linings having to pass through 



XVI PREFACE* 

the bricks and tiles, it becomes dry, and quite 
incapable of affording any nourishment to the 
plants. 

The limited space in which the plants are 
confined in their growth by brick pits, is also a 
very great objection to this mode of culture. 
That they derive their chief support from the 
extremity of the roots must be obvious to every 
one, and if these are concentred in the middle 
of the bed, and thereby rendered incapable of 
expanding over the flues as in the dung bed, 
they must be certainly deprived of that vigour 
which is natural to them from a free and unin- 
terrupted growth, and where they experience 
the whole of the benefit that can arise from the 
bed in which they are placed. In short, the 
dung bed in so many instances is superior to 
brick pits, that competitiou in the culture of 
either the cucumber or melon by the latter plan 



PREFACE. XVU 

would be entirely useless ; for whether in the 
vigour of the plants, quickness of growth } or 
production of fine fruit, the dung bed, system- 
atically attended to, as described in this treatise, 
will prove beyond doubt, that the most expensive 
means are not alwavs attended with the most 
beneficial results. 

In the following directions, the first thing I 
have taken notice of, is the early cucumber, as 
being the most difficult, and consequently the 
most particular in its process of culture. Strict 
attention and perseverance in the method 
prescribed, cannot fail to bring them to a com- 
plete state of perfection within the time limited. 

Secondly — The necessary directions will be 
found for promoting the growth of such cucum- 
bers as are sown in January. It is here necessary 
to observe, that this is the most preferable season 

c 



XViil PREFACE, 

for those which are not required so very early ; 
as the increasing temperature of the weather in 
the course of their growth, affords facility for 
their being matured with a greater degree of 
strength. 

Thirdly — The method of bringing to per- 
fection the late frame, or spring sown cucum- 
ber. The directions upon this head will be 
found extremely useful, both to young practi- 
tioners, and those who are not professed 
horticulturists. Many gentlemen who cultivate 
their own gardens, and are desirous of possessing 
a cucumber bed, will find the information here 
given of great utility. 

Fourthly — -In treating upon the processs 
necessary for the management of the hand- 
glass cucumber in the summer months, I have 
offered an improved system, which will be found 



PREFACE. XIX 

of considerable importance to gardeners in 
general in enhancing the value of their fruit, by 
rendering it much superior to that produced by 
the common method. 

The directions I have given with regard to 
the melon, will be found to explode all that 
difficulty which gardeners have usually imagined 
exists in the production of this choice fruit. The 
description given of my method of culture, will 
at once evince the simplicity of its process, and 
show the certainty of its result. 

Having explained the motives which induced 
me to undertake this work, I have only to 
observe, that the system has been productive 
of great advantage to myself, in enabling me to 
supersede my contemporaries in several annual 
shows, by obtaining the prize ; and, to render 
this effective to every person, the principal thing 
c2 



XX PREFACE. 

required, as before mentioned, is attention and 
perseverance in the rules prescribed ; and those 
who adopt them will, I am confident, acknow- 
ledge their utility, and be sensible of the benefits 
that must eventually arise from a practical 
improvement in this particular branch of 
horticulture. 

THOMAS WATKINS, 



Highbury Park, January 30, 1824. 



THE ART 

OF 

PROMOTING THE GROWTH 

OF THE 

€ummbtv ana jfteion* 



ON THE MANAGEMENT REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE 
OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



THE SEED-BED FOR OCTOBER: 

To be sown from the \0th to the 20th of the 
Month. 



One load of horse-dung, or twenty barrows- 
full, will be sufficient for a one-light box, and let 
it be put together at least three weeks before 
making the bed, in a round or square heap, 
being particular in well treading it down. If the 
dung is djry, it will be necessary to give it some 

B 



2 ON THB CULTURE 

water ; if very dry, a dozen pots will be required. 
Let it lay in this state a week, and then turn it, 
shaking the outsides of the heap into the mid- 
dle, and give it some more water. In doing this, 
it is requisite that the heap should be well shook 
to pieces, and trod down. Let it lay another 
week, at the expiration of which, observe the same 
directions as before given, applying the quantity 
of water in proportion to the dry nature of the 
dung. At the end of the third week, it will be 
in a proper condition to make use of, as by that 
time it will be sufficiently moist and hot, the 
necessary state in which it should be, before the 
formation of the bed. 

As much depends upon the nature of the 
dung, and its proper condition, great attention 
should be paid, and some judgment exercised in 
the means best calculated to prepare it for a 
state of fermentation. The most certain method 
that can be adopted, and likely to ensure a bene- 
ficial result is, in the summer months, to pack 
the dung you intend to make use of for the 
October seed-bed as close together as possible, 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 3 

taking care to keep it dry, that it may retain its 
virtue. This sort of dung is far preferable to 
that newly made, being less rank and not so 
liable to burn ; and when under a state of pre- 
paration, by turning and moistening, as before 
described, it will be in a much better condition 
than any that can be fresh procured.* 

Before forming the bed, let the bottom be 
made in the following manner: — Raise the 
ground about six inches above the level with 
road sand or mould, upon the top of which 
place some fagots, or other kind of wood, to the 
height of a foot, in order that the bed may be 
well drained. If there is an insufficiency of 
dung, you can add a foot of dry rubbish, such as 
strawberry or asparagus halm, or any other loose 
stuff. Let the bottom be extended nine inches 
wider than the frame you intend to make use 
of, the height of the bed being at the back 
four feet, and in the front, three feet nine 



* Dung put together in the above manner, will retain its 
virtue from six to nine months. 

B 2 



4 



ON THE CULTURE 



inches. Beat it well down with a fork ; then 
put the box on, and fill it three parts full with 
the shovellings of the dung that is left ; after 
which, place on the light, and let it be close shut 
down. As soon as you discover the heat rising, 
admit air by opening the frame about an inch : 
when it increases, so as to become very hot, 
admit more air, by extending the aperture to two 
inches, It must remain in this situation about 
a week ; then fork it up above a foot deep, and 
if caked together, or in the least dry, give it 
more water. From two to four pots is generally 
sufficient ; but the quantity must be regulated 
by the state of the bed. Here it is necessary to 
observe, that moisture is of most important 
consequence to the seed-bed, and nothing is so 
well calculated to sweeten and cleanse it from 
impurity as water. 

In two or three days after forking up, it will 
be necessary to take off the box and light, for 
the purpose of making the bed even. In doing 
this, stir it up from about the depth of a foot, 
and shake it to pieces ; then put on the box 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



5 



again, and give the light one or two inches of 
air, according to the temperature of the weather. 

It will now be necessary to wrap up the 1)ed 
with straw, pea-halm, or hay, about eighteen 
inches wide at the bottom, drawing it in gra- 
dually to a foot wide, within three inches of the 
top of the box. 

In three or four days stir up the bed in the 
same manner as before, observing that if it be 
in the least dry, or inclined to a burning heat, 
to give it three or more pots of water, as shall 
seem necessary. It must be stirred up again in 
three or four days, and beat down gently with a 
fork, when it will be in a fit state to receive the 
old tan or mould in which the seed is to be 
deposited. 

A seed-bed should always lay a fortnight or 
three weeks before the seed is attempted to be 
sown ; as many evil consequences are to be 
apprehended from sowing it before, from the 
firing of the bed, or the impure nature of the 



6 



ON THE CULTURE 



dung. If this be not strictly attended to, the 
plants will not be brought to that degree of 
perfection, as might reasonably be expected from 
a bed in its proper heat and condition.* 

After the bed has been laid and dealt with 
according to the foregoing directions, spread two 
barrows-full of old tan or light mould all over 
the surface, having it a little deeper in the mid- 
dle than at the sides. Old tan is certainly more 
preferable than mould, though either will answer 
the purpose. Let it be put in the frame the day 
before the seed is sown, and cover the bed up 
with a single mat at night, taking care to shut it 
down until the morning, that the heat may be 
properly drawn up. Take some forty-eight size 



* The heat required in October sown plants, while growing 
in the seed-bed, is from sixty five to seventy degrees of 
Fahrenheit's thermometer. Should that temperature be 
exceeded in this season, they will draw up very long : bat 
after being ridged out, more heat will become necessary j that 
is to say, from seventy to eighty degrees : and the same is to 
be observed with young plants raised in the three following 
months. 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 7 

pots, and mix a quantity of leaf mould with a 

sixth proportion of road sand, not sifted fine. 
The sifting mould to a fine degree is an error 
too prevalent in horticulture, and ought parti- 
cularly to be avoided, from its great tendency 
to bind. 

It is very requisite that a cucumber should 
have a good digestion, and in order to accom- 
plish this, it will be necessary to cover the holes 
at the bottom of the pots with broken pieces ; 
then strew a little of the rough siftings of the 
mould over it, and fill them up within half an 
inch of the brim with the prepared mould and 
sand. Shake it dpwn a little, and sow the seed* 



* Some gardeners are very particular in having seed that is 
three or four years old, imagining that new will grow too 
vigorous, and not show fruit or set so well ; but in this they 
are much mistaken, the Author knowing, from experience, 
that new seed, or at least not more than two years old, is the 
best calculated for bringing to perfection both the cucumber 
and melon ; possessing the advantage of a greater freedom in 
growth, and much finer fruit than can be derived from old 
seed. 



+ 



8 



ON THE CULTURE 



from eighteen to twenty-four in a pot, just 
covering it with a little mould ; then give it a 
small quantity of water, which for the first 
time may be cold, but great care must be taken 
in the subsequent waterings, that it be chilled 
to about the warmth of new milk. 

The seed being sown, plunge the pots in the 
bed up to the rim, and give them about half an 
inch of air. At night they must be covered 
with a single mat, taking care to turn it up at 
at the back, that the steam may pass freely from 
the bed. Let the air be continued both night 
and day. 

After the seed has been sown three days, it 
will be up, when the pots must be unplunged, 
placed on the surface, and some water given to 
them. They will now require upwards of an 
inch of air, both night and day, which will cause 
the plants to grow stuggy, or dwarfish, and 
prevent their drawing. In about three days 
give them some more water in the morning, 
and they will be ready to pot off in the afternoon. 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



9 



Plants should be always potted off when 
young, as they strike more freely in the pots ; 
and, in doing this, the following directions should 
be attended to. 

Put the mould in the bed to chill, the day 
before potting off, and let it be of the same 
description as that in which the seed was sown. 
If the pots are old and dirty, wash them, and be 
careful in having them properly dried before they 
are made use of. Take some old rotten turf, or 
a little of the coarse siftings of the leaf mould, 
and place a small quantity over the tile at the 
bottom of every pot ; then fill them about one- 
third full, put three plants in each, and cover the 
roots about an inch. The pots must not be 
plunged, but placed on the surface, and some 
water given them with a fine rose. 

It is necessary to have a small pot on pur- 
pose to water the plants, which will contain 
about three quarts, and has a hollow fine rose, 
which is much better calculated to water the 
plants regularly than a spreading one. 



10 



ON THE CULTURE 



Be particular in watering- them regular, which 
will be requisite every two or three clays, for the 
space of three weeks or a month at latest, when 
they will be in a proper condition to ridge out. 

After the plants have been potted three days, 
add a little mould to them, and repeat it every 
two or three days, for about a fortnight, until 
the pot is quite filled. Much attention should 
be paid to this method of putting in the mould, 
which experience has convinced the author is far 
superior to the usual practice of filling the pots 
in the first instance up to the seed-leaves of the 
plants. By the gradual mode of filling, the 
plant is prevented from shanking, and is certain 
in its growth of being dwarfish and strong, which 
cannot be insured by the common method, as it 
tends considerably to weaken the plant, and 
renders it very liable to fog off, before taking- 
root. By potting them low, and only just 
covering the roots at first, the stems of the 
plants become hardened, and strike very freely 
upwards: as the tap roots of a cucumber always 
decay when forced with a strong bottom heat. 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 11 

It will be necessary, after the plants have been 
potted about a week, to examine the bed, for 
the purpose of ascertaining whether there is any 
fire heat. If such should be found to be the case, 
and the directions as before given with regard to 
moisture have been strictly attended to, it can 
only exist in the tan, which must immediately 
be supplied with water, and, the day following, 
stirred well up together and levelled, placing the 
pots upon the surface. In another week again 
examine the bed, and if any fire heat still 
remains, attend to it as above ; if not, stir up 
the tan, and plunge the pots about half way 
down ; being, however, guided in this by the 
temperature of the bed, as plants sown in Octo- 
ber do not require so much heat as those in the 
three following months. 

Observe, when the plants have been potted 
two or three days, to stir the mould in the pots, 
round the plants, and likewise the tan, with a 
sharp-pointed stick, which will contribute to 
freshen the plants, and prevent any thing of a 
mouldy nature from injuring them. 

c2 



12 



ON THE CULTURE 



As soon as they have made the first rough leaf, 
top them, by taking out the break that appears 
next, which may be easily done with the thumb 
and finger, or a sharp-pointed stick. In little 
more than a fortnight, they will be in a fit state 
to top down ; and in three weeks from the time 
of sowing, ready to ridge out. 

At this time of the year, the bed will not 
require any lining ; but observe, that as the 
wrapping sinks, it will be necessary to increase 
it, pressing it down close to the box, and keep- 
ing it within one-third of the top. 

If the plants are not ridged out when three 
weeks old, plunge them up to the rim, until the 
fruiting frame is ready for their reception, which 
ought to be at the latest when they are a month 
or five weeks old. If it should happen, however, 
that the frame is not perfectly sweet, by no 
means ridge them out until it is in a proper con- 
dition. After they are a month old, increase the 
lining at the back and front, about four or five 
barrows-full each, applying it in the following 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



13 



manner : — Remove the wrapping down to the 
bottom, and extend the dung to the width of 
two feet, and three parts as high as the bed ; 
drawing it in to about eighteen inches at the 
top. Cover the lining with the litter four inches 
wide from the bottom, and three parts as high as 
the box, being particularly careful in stopping 
up the inside, by pressing the tan close to the 
box, about three inches above the bottom. As 
the lining sinks, add a little wrapping to the top, 
formed of hay, or old litter that is quite sweet. 



14 



ON THE CULTURE 



THE FRUITING FRAME, 

For Plants sown in October, November, 
December, and January. 



Four loads of dung will be sufficient for a 
three-light box, and the same in proportion to 
the number you intend to make use of. Let it 
be put together a fortnight before the seed is 
sown ; be very particular in giving it plenty of 
water, and pack it close together. After it has 
laid a week turn it, and if dry, moisten it with 
water. Let it continue in this state another 
week, when the same directions as before given 
must be observed ; and, in a week more, the bed 
will be in a fit condition to make up. 

The bottom must be prepared in the same 
manner as directed for the seed-bed ; then form 
the bed of dung four feet three inches at the 
back, by four feet in the front, allowing for a 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



15 



cavity of about ten inches between each box ; 
then place the boxes on, and put the shovellings 
Inside, in the proportion of two or three barrows- 
full to a light. In forming the bed, it is the best 
plan to make it in layers of about a foot each, 
which will cause the dung to be much better 
mixed, than if all finished at first, of an equal 
height. Be very particular in separating the 
dung, and breaking it to pieces, afterwards 
beating it well down with a fork* 

After the bed has been thus prepared, put the 
lights on, and shut them down close until the 
heat begins to rise. When such is the case, give 
them about an inch of air ; and in three or four 
days wrap the bed all round with dry litter or 
useless hay, eighteen inches wide from the bot- 
tom, sloping it in to about a foot as high as the 
bed, which will greatly tend to promote a regu- 
lar heat. As the careful wrapping up of the bed 
is an essential requisite, means must be taken to 
keep it close, and protect it from any injury that 
may arise in consequence of tempestuous wea- 
ther, this may be accomplished by means of 



16 



ON THE CULTURE 



sharp-pointed sticks, with hooks in the form of 
a peg, and about the size and length of a broom- 
stick. Thrust these through the litter into the 
bed, about half way up, one to each light, at the 
back and front, and two at each end. 

After the bed has been made about a week or 
ten days, take off the boxes and lights, in order 
to level it, and let it have from four to six inches 
fall from the back to the front ; in this, how- 
ever, you must be in some degree guided by the 
form of the boxes, which it is necessary should 
have a good fall, that the plants may derive 
benefit from the sun ; then fork up the bed 
about a foot deep, and again place on the boxes 
and lights, giving nearly two inches of air, both 
night and day. In about four or five days it 
will be necessary to again fork it up, and give it 
some water, in the proportion of two pots to a 
light. This must be repeated every two or three 
days, until the bed is perfectly sweet, which is 
usually the case in three or four weeks, applying 
water during that time, according to the state of 
the bed. 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



17 



When you find that the bed is properly puri- 
fied, put in the sifted leaf mould. A three-light 
box will require a large barrow-full ; the quan- 
tity for a one-light being about four shovels. 
After this, add to the wrapping some sweet litter 
or hay, increasing it to nearly the top of the 
boxes, and apply about two pots of water to 
each of the cavities, taking care to fill them up 
to nearly the tops of the boxes, with short sweet 
mulshy litter. This is a point but very little 
known, yet of the greatest importance in the 
culture of cucumbers ; for when the weather 
begins to grow severe, if there is no cavity, and 
the boxes are placed close together, in the usual 
manner, the outsides are very liable to become 
damp, and the cold, penetrating through, is 
certain of doing the plants material injury. 

Put a pot of plants in the middle of a three- 
light box, and at night admit nearly two inches 
of air, covering them with a single mat ; and if 
on the following day the plants look well, they 
may be safely ridged out. 

D 



18 



ON THE CULTURE 



It is requisite that both the boxes and lights 
should be painted every year, at least a month 
before they are wanted for use ; but if this can- 
not be conveniently done, be particular in wash- 
ing them with boiling water, in which some 
unslacked lime must be mixed. This will in 
some measure answer the purpose of paint in 
effectually destroying the vermin, or the eggs 
which may have been deposited in the crevices of 
the wood. 

After the plants are ridged out, wash them 
every morning, on the outside, and about once 
a week in the inside, which will tend to reflect 
the light, and cause them to thrive much better* 
When you wash the outside, push them down 
about two or three inches, which will prevent the 
water from perishing the lining at the side of the 
boxes. If the plants have received no injury, and 
are able to bear the heat of the bed, ridge them 
out, letting the hills be about nine inches high, 
covering the roots about an inch round, and 
being an inch higher than they were when 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



19 



in the pots. If there is any surplus mould, 
rake it with the hand all over the bed ; then 
water the plants, taking care, at the same 
time to sprinkle the bed regularly upon the 
surface. Close them down for the space of ten 
minutes, and then admit an inch of air. If the 
weather is mild, in an hour it may be increased 
to two inches, and a single mat only will be 
requisite at night. If, however, the weather is 
windy, cover them at night with a double mat, 
or a single one and a little hay. 

Be very particular in allowing them plenty of 
air, especially of a night, taking care, however, 
to regulate this by the temperature of the wea- 
ther. If there is much wind, they will of course 
require less air ; but, at all events, it is better to 
give too much than otherwise, more particularly 
at the first ridging out, as the weather at this 
season being frequently subject to sudden 
changes, which, should it occur in the night, and 
the plants are too confined, or the least rankness 
existing in the bed, they are sure to experience 
material injury, which, at this time of year, it is 

d2 



20 



ON THE CULTURE 



very improbable they will ever recover ; or, if 
with extreme difficulty, they should be brought 
round, they can never be expected to grow to 
any degree of perfection. 

Stir up the bed every day for a fortnight to 
the depth of about nine inches, with a hand- 
fork, and if you discover any fire-heat, imme- 
diately give water to the part affected, that being 
the only effectual remedy that can be applied. 
Be careful in forking close to the bottom of the 
hills, and if you ascertain that it fires much in 
this place, bore several holes at the bottom of the 
hills, and apply plenty of water. 

Have a sharp-pointed stick, about six or 
eight inches long, for the purpose of stirring the 
mould round the plants, in a similar manner to 
hoeing a crop in a garden. This will very much 
refresh the plants, and should be attended to 
while they are young, for at least two months 
the day after they have been watered. 

As soon as the roots begin to be visible 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



21 



through the hills, add three shovels-full of 
unsifted mould at a time to each hill, being very 
careful not to mould too freely, until the begin- 
ning of February, as the plants from the middle 
of December to the middle of January, lie in a 
dormant state ; consequently, too large a quan- 
tity of mould at this season, will be attended 
with ill effects, in stagnating the roots, and 
preventing the heat of the bed rising in a free 
and proper manner. 

This being the season when plants are most 
exposed to injury, and are frequently lost, great 
care and attention is necessary for their preserva- 
tion from the effects of the cold, in wrapping the 
linings well up, and giving a good top covering. 
If the weather is intense, they will require eight 
or nine inches covering of hay, and water only 
once a week. 

As soon as the plants are first ridged out, have 
dung in for a lining, which should always be put 
in the front and sides first. When the dung has 
been put together a week, turn it, and at the 



22 



ON THE CULTURE 



end of another it will be fit for use ; one load 
being sufficient for a three-light box. After th 
plants have been ridged out a fortnight, or three 
weeks at the farthest, it will be necessary to line 
the bed to the width of about two feet, and three 
parts as high as the bed, inclining with a slope 
of about six inches towards the top. When the 
dung has been put about half way up, tread it, and 
then add the remainder, beating it well down with 
a fork. Cover the lining with litter about three 
or four inches thick at the outside, and within 
one or two inches of the top of the box ; then 
place a board at the top about nine inches wide, 
which will keep it close, and assist in drawing up 
the heat. Be particularly careful in stopping the 
inside next to the box, when you make a fresh 
lining, and beat it close down with the hand 
about two or three inches above the bottom. 

When a fresh lining has been added, have the 
dung in readiness for the back, which will be 
required about a fortnight afterwards. It should 
be formed about two feet six inches wide, well 
trod down, and wrapped up in the same manner 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



23 



as the front, within three inches of the top of the 
box. Be careful that the litter is not rank ; old 
useless hay, or litter that has been some time 
laying by, will be preferable. The same directions 
must be attended to in stopping up the inside of 
the box, as with the front. 

As soon as the heat of the lining in any degree 
affects the bed, and you discover that the inside, 
where it has been stopped, begins to get dry, 
give it some water in the evening, just before 
covering up, for about a week or ten days, which 
will be the means of keeping the rankness down, 
and causing a sweet steam heat to rise. 

As the lining settles, press it down with a 
spade next the box, and add more litter upon the 
top, which should be done every other day, 
observing that when you increase one lining to 
have the dung in readiness for the next ; each 
lining not being calculated to last more than a 
month or five weeks ; though the back one will 
not want renewing quite so often as the front. 
When you apply the second front lining, it will 



24 



ON THE CULTURE 



be necessary to bore the bed with a hedge-stake 
or mop-stick, making five holes to a three-light 
box ; that is, one under each hill, and two under 
the bars : bore them straight rather better than 
half way up the bed, so that when the second 
back lining is applied, holes may be bored 
exactly opposite to the others. This will cause 
a free circulation of the heat from one lining to 
the other, and prove not only of great service in 
regulating the temperature of the bed, but of 
equal advantage in draining off the surplus 
water. Take care when you add a fresh lining, 
to keep the holes open. 

As the linings draw the boxes down, they will 
require rising with boards and bricks. In order 
to accomplish this, it will be necessary to provide 
some small pieces of board, rather larger than a 
brick, placing one of each, with a brick, under 
the corners of the boxes ; and, as the bed settles, 
increase the number of bricks. When you 
raise the boxes, stop up the bed with rotten 
moist dung, and close up the inside about two 
or three inches above the bottom of the box. 



Of EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



25 



The plants should be always topped when 
young, at the first joint, as before directed ; then 
let them run two joints twice following;* 
afterwards keep them topped at the first joint, 
except it be blind, which may be easily ascer- 
tained by close examination ; if you find such to 
be the case, let it run another joint before it is 
topped. 

It is necessary that the plants should be con- 
tinued in leaf mould until the middle of January, 
as there is no other in which they will thrive so 
well at that season of the year. Their peculiar 
and tender nature bears a strong resemblance to 
young children, in the care requisite for their 

* The Author would recommend January-sown plants, 
after having been topped at the first joint, to run four joints, 
then topped again at the first joint, when they will generally 
show fruit, and, if properly attended to* will swell off to seven 
or eight inches in length, as the first shows do not come so 
fine as those afterwards. Do not let more than one fruit 
swell upon a plant at a time, as more will cause them to grow 
ill-shaped, and not near so fine. 

E 



26 



ON THE CULTURE 



nurture and growth. They require light nourish- 
ment, that will easily digest ; and no soil is so 
well calculated for this purpose as leaf-mould, 
mixed with a little grit ; from its excellent 
properties in absorbing the water. 

In ridging out the plants, one thing must be 
attended to in the preparation of the bed, which 
has not been before mentioned. Hollow the bed 
out to the depth of about four inches in the 
middle, so that if the weather is cold or windy, 
the dung may be pulled down half way up the 
hills, when it will be nearly level about the bed ; 
but as soon as the weather becomes mild, it 
must be drawn away again, or otherwise the 
heat will be too violent for the roots. As mould 
is added to the roots, draw the dung away level 
with the bottom of the hill ; then put it half way 
up again, being, however, regulated in this by 
the heat of the bed, and the temperature of the 
weather. After the hills cover nearly three parts 
of the bed, take the dung out which has been 
placed round them, and level it with nearly the 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



27 



bottom of the box, leaving three or four inches 
round the sides to keep out the rankness from 
the linings, as before directed. 

In covering up the plants, a single mat will be 
sufficient, until they have been ridged out a 
fortnight, unless the weather is windy or very 
cold ; in such case, make use of a double mat 
or a little hay ; be careful, at the same time, 
not to give them too much covering at first, as 
it will draw the plants, and cause them to grow 
very weak ; in this, however, you must be in 
some degree guided by the heat of the bed, and 
the temperature of the weather. When there 
is a good heat, and the weather is still, they will 
require less ; but if there is much wind, or the 
air is very cold, it must of course be increased. 
It seldom occurs that plants require much 
covering until a fortnight before Christmas, 
when it will be found necessary, if the weather 
is moderate, to cover them from four to six 
inches. Instances have occurred, when the 
author has been obliged to increase the covering 
to a foot in thickness, from the intense cold % 



28 



ON THE CULTURE 



but this, however, is seldom the case ; and from 
four to six inches may generally be considered 
sufficient from December to April. As the sun 
increases, and the nights become milder, reduce 
the covering to three or four inches, until May ; 
from whence to June a single mat, or a little 
hay or litter will be sufficient. If the weather 
is now seasonable, and the nights warm, they 
will not require any covering, but should this 
not be the case, it is better to continue it even 
until Midsummer. 

Take particular care when covering up, after 
a fresh lining has been put to the bed, that 
the mats or hay does not hang over the lights 
for at least a fortnight* as such will draw the 
rank steam into the bed, and kill the plants. 

The linings should be continued until the 
weather is fine and settled, which may be 
expected in the middle of May ; but should the 
weather be cold and unfavourable, it may be 
necessary to retain them until the middle of 
June. 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



29 



In about the third week of the month of 
January, the plants will require stronger food; 
and half bog and half leaf mould may be 
applied. Should there be a difficulty in obtain- 
ing bog earth, procure the top spit of light 
meadow earth, and lay it up for twelve, or, at 
the least, six months before it is wanted for use. 
When you mould towards the outside, it may 
be still stronger, mixing rotten dung or leaf 
mould, in the proportion of one-fourth, with bog 
or light meadow earth ; observing, however, not 
to mould up the plants level until some time 
after fruit has been cut, The beginning of 
March is the proper time to mould up full. 

Let a cavity be left at the back and front of 
the box of about two inches, to prevent the roots 
from being injured on the outside of the box by 
the linings ; and to cause the heat to rise freely 
from the bed. 

It is very necessary that the plants should be 
kept thin of vine, as being material in the growth 
of fine fruit ; and as they extend towards the 



30 



ON THIi CULTURE 



outside of the bed, do not suffer them to run 
more than one joint at a time. 

Keep the leaves thinned, by taking out the 
oldest first, in order that they may stand single, 
and not one over the other; to accomplish 
which it will be necessary to peg them out. 
When taking off the leaves, cut them close to the 
vine, not leaving a long stalk, as that will rot and 
injure the plants. When they are laid, be par- 
ticular in having the plants down close to the 
mould, as early as possible, in order that they may 
strike root ; at the same time being careful not to 
bury the vine. In doing this, place a little mould 
round the side of the vine first, leaving the top 
uncovered until it is a little hardened, and the 
roots begin to strike. When such is the case, 
cover the vine all over, and then you may con* 
tinue laying within one joint of the extremity. 

It is here necessary to observe, that very few 
are acquainted with the advantages that may 
be derived from laying the plants in a proper 
manner. Many even, who are in the habit of 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



31 



observing this method, practice it so slightly, 
that little if any benefit results from it ; and by 
far the greatest number of horticulturists take 
no notice of it whatever. Laying is certainly a 
most material point in the culture of the early 
cucumber ; and it is impossible to ensure a good 
crop without a strict attention to it : in fact, 
the Author principally attributes his success in 
the production of fine fruit, to his extreme care 
in this particular. It should be done every 
fortnight or three weeks after the plants have 
come into bearing ; and, if continued in a regu- 
lar manner, good fruit may be obtained until 
October. Some imagine that October sown 
plants will soon be worn out, after producing a 
few cucumbers early ; but this is a mistaken 
idea, for, if the laying is continued regularly, 
they will bear good fruit equally as long as any 
young plants sown in the spring. Leaf-mould, 
mixed with a little road sand, is the best thing 
to lay them in until the latter end of March, 
when you may add a stronger soil, composed of 
one-fourth of leaf-mould or rotten dung, mixed 
with bog or light meadow earth. 



32 



ON THE CULTURE 



Soft water is essentially necessary for the 
plants, as hard is almost certain of producing 
the canker, unless particular means are adopted 
to prevent it* In some situations it may be 
impossible to obtain soft water ; in such a case, 
let the water stand in a tub for at least twenty- 
four hours; if two or three days even it will be 
the better, as in that time it will be in some 
degree softened by the sun, and the raw coldness 
expelled from it. 

After the plants have come into bearing, sheeps 
dung is an excellent thing to mix with the 
water, if used in a moderate manner. The 
following proportion will be necessary :-*-To six 
pots of water put in the tub one shovel-full of 
dung ; let this be stirred up continually for the 
space of two or three days, and when wanted for 
use, it must be again well stirred up. In water- 
ing with this mixture, be particular in having a 
small thin spouted pot, without a rose, so that it 
may be easily poured under the leaves. A gallon 
or six quarts will be a sufficient quantity for one 
light, and in watering be careful that it is not 



OP EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



33 



sprinkled over the leaves. Sheeps dung, mixed 
with the water, will be found very beneficial to 
the plants, if used moderately, as too great a 
freedom will tend to injure them. 

When the plants are first ridged out, they will 
require water every third day, until about the 
middle of December ; and when applied, it must 
be sprinkled all over the plants and bed, observing 
to give a larger quantity where the heat seems 
most to prevail. In general more water is requi- 
site at the back than the front : unless there is 
much heat in the front from the middle of Decem- 
ber until the middle of January, once in five or 
six days will be sufficient to water the plants. 
Round the side of the box, and at the back, how- 
ever, should be watered every night, while there 
is much heat. About two or three quarts of 
water at each time to a light will be sufficient 
for the plants until the middle of January and 
from that time more will be necessary. In apply- 
ing the water you must be guided in a great 
measure by the state of the weather. Take 
the opportunity of watering when the sun is 

F 



ON THE CULTURE 



out, and then close them down for about a 
quarter of an hour or more, according to the 
season of the year. At all times, before water- 
ing, admit double the usual quantity of air 
about a quarter of an hour previous to the 
application, for the purpose of hardening the 
plants. 

Water may be applied at any time of the 
day, if the heat is good, but the most preferable 
time is certainly about eleven o'clock in the 
morning, particularly as the season advances 
towards the months of April and May, and the 
weather becomes more temperate, and the sun 
has greater power. After they are watered, shut 
them down for about ten minutes or a quarter 
of an hour, and let them have the benefit of a 
clear sun ; then shade them with a mat for two 
or three hours, and shut the frame close down, 
in order that a moist sweet steam heat may be 
produced, which will cause the fruit to swell 
very quick. At one or two o'clock take off the 
mat and admit a little air. When the sun is 
clear and the weather hot, let them be shaded 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



35 



from eleven to two o'clock ; some evergreen 
boughs or pea-sticks are very good things. 

Should the above directions be found incon- 
venient to attend to, the difficulty may be 
obviated by adopting the following method. 
After the plants are watered in a morning, shut 
them down, for the space of about ten minutes, 
then give them a little air ; in about the same 
time increase it, and so gradually until the pro- 
per quantity is admitted. The gradual admis- 
sion of air is extremely important, and ought* 
therefore, to be particularly attended to. 

The frames should never be shut down too 
long in the morning of the spring and summer 
months ; a little air should be given at eight 
o'clock, if the weather is fine, in an hour it will be 
necessary to increase it; afterwards attending to 
it according to the state of the w r eather. 

In order to produce fine fruit in the early part 
of the season, that is in February and March ; 



36 ON THE CULTURE 

let only one grow on a plant at a time. Keep 
the male blossoms rubbed off when young-, to 
prevent their weakening the plants ; the best 
method of doing which is with a small pointed 
stick. 

As soon as the plants begin to show fruit, leave 
a few male blossoms to set the fruit with. If this 
be not attended to in the early part of the 
season* the fruit will not swell off, as it is the 
female blossom alone that bears it, and if these 
be not impregnated with the male they will prove 
unfruitful. The female flower may easily be dis- 
tinguished from the male, by the appearance of 
the fruit at the bottom of the blossom which the 
other does not possess. 

When the female flower is in full bloom, take 
a male blossom which is in full bloom also, and 



* There is no necessity for setting the fruit beyond the 
latter end of May, as by that time the bees will find their 
way to the frames, and prove equally effective. 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 37 

hold it in one hand, with the other split it down, 
and tear off the flowers, being careful at the 
same time not to injure the male part ; then hold 
the male blossom between the forefinger and 
thumb of the right hand, while the female flower 
is held between the middle and forefinger of the 
left hand ; then put the male blossom in the 
centre of the female, and the farina will adhere 
to it, and have the desired effect ; should it, 
however, happen to fall out after it is done, it is 
of no consequence whatever, as the impreg- 
nation is received the instant it is put in. 

The proper time to set the fruit is in the morn- 
ing, as it always comes in bloom at night, and if 
left until the afternoon the blossom of the fruit 
closes a little, in consequence of which it is 
doubtful whether fruition will be effected. 

In order to ascertain whether the male blos- 
som is good ; after you have prepared it as above 
described for use, draw the farina, or genitals, 
across the thumb-nail, and if good, it will leave 
a glutinous substance resembling gum. 



38 



ON THE CULTURE 



As soon as the fruit becomes the size of your 
finger let no more than one be upon a plant at a 
time to swell off, and when beginning* to grow 
crooked give the stalk end a twist, place them 
on their backs, put a peg to the side, and the heat 
of the bed will soon draw them down and make 
them straight. 

A cucumber is a plant that requires much 
water, particularly when bearing fruit : it will be 
necessary then to give from one to two gallons 
each time according to the heat of the bed, and 
temperature of the weather. If the season is 
fine and the heat good they will require water 
every other day, but if the weather is dull, and 
the heat slack, be very cautious in applying the 
water lest they should get the canker, which is 
a dangerous disorder, and very difficult to be 
removed. The best thing in such a case is to give 
a strong heat, and be very moderate in the 
application of water. 



After the plants have been ridged out a fort- 
night it will be necessary to shut them down in 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



39 



the afternoon, about an hour before they are 
covered up. They will, however, require air in 
the night, generally till the fruit is cut, and even 
then if the weather is mild ; for by being kept 
close at night when there is a strong heat, the 
fruit is liable to change colour and become of 
a yellow cast, ' 

The plants should be uncovered in a morning 
by eight o'clock, or nine at farthest, in the winter, 
and six or seven as the season advances, unless 
the weather is very cold or windy, when they 
may remain an hour longer than usual. 

Should the frame be infested with wood- 
lice, place some cabbage-leaves or a small 
quantity of hay in the bed, which will answer 
the purpose of a trap to collect them, when they 
may be easily destroyed by boiling water. Care, 
however, is necessary in this expedient, for should 
the plants have taken root at the side iof the 
box, the hot water will materially injure them ; 
but if the plants are kept healthy, little danger 
is to be apprehended from this description of 



40 



ON THE CULTURE 



vermin, as they always like a sickly stagnated 
plant to a thriving vigorous one. Mice are 
sometimes extremely troublesome, but may be 
destroyed by procuring from a Chemist some 
ground ox vomicae, and applyingit in thefollowing 
manner. Mix the drug with some water, stir it 
up well, and let it boil about ten minutes ; take 
it off the fire and put in some wheat or cucumber 
seed, letting it steep for ten or twelve hours ; or 
spread some ox vomicae not boiled upon bread and 
fresh butter, place this in the bed near the holes 
at which they enter, which will effectually 
extirpate them. 

With regard to the time of cutting fruit* from 



* The Author has tried several sorts, but at present only 
makes use of three kinds of frame cucumber, which he 
considers preferable to all the others. One is a long 
black prickly fruit, with a fine bloom and short handle, well 
filled up. It will sometimes grow for table to the length of 
fifteen inches, and usually from eleven to twelve. It is an 
excellent bearer, but not so well adapted for October sowing 
as the other two kinds, from its tender qualities, being thin 



OP EARLY CUCUMBERS. 4 1 

October sown plants, much depends upon the 
weather, some seasons being much finer than 
others. Fruit from the October seed has been 
cut off by the Author as early as the middle of 
January, while at another time it has been as 
late as the beginning of March ; he, however, is 
well satisfied if it is ready to cut by the middle 
of February : indeed, upon an average this may 
be fairly considered as the probable time for its 
mature growth. 

It is not advisable in any young beginner to 
sow seed in November or December until about 



leaved and less hardy : it is, however, a very good sort for 
January and spring sowing. The other two kinds very much 
resemble each other, and will frequently grow to the length 
of twelve inches, filled up in the handle, black, prickly, and 
carry a good bloom. Their usual dimensions are from eight 
to ten inches being thick-leaved and particularly hardy. 
Both these are well calculated for the October bed, and 
excellent bearers for spring sowing. The Author obtained 
them both by impregnating j and those who purchase the 
work of him, may be accommodated with a few of the seeds 
of eitherj>f the above, gratis. 

G 



42 



ON THE CULTURE 



the twentieth of the latter month, as plants grown 
in that season are very liable to be retarded in 
their growth, while those sown from about the 
twentieth of December to the beginning of 
January will grow much stronger and quicker, 
as they possess the advantage of the increase of 
the season. An experienced framer, however, 
can grow plants at any time of the year, and 
from those sown at the above time, he may 
expect to cut fruit by the twentieth of March or 
towards the latter end of that month, according 
to the weather ; much depending upon that and 
the situation of the framing grounds, which 
should at all times be open to the sun, and 
defended from the winds. 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 



48 



THE SEED-BED FOR JANUARY. 

To be sown in the beginning of the Month, 



As this is the season in which Gardeners in 
general sow seed for cucumbers, it will be neces- 
sary to take notice of a few directions which 
vary from the October seed-bed. 

At this time of the year young plants are 
much slower in their growth, and more difficult 
t o be reared than in October, consequently they 
require a stronger bottom bed, though made in 
the same manner as above directed. The dung 
must undergo the same process in working, but 
should be six inches higher ; it will also require 
more wrapping and covering, particularly if the 
weather is very cold ; in this, however, as before, 
you must be guided by the temperature of the 
season ; taking care not to cover too much at 
first. For the first fortnight a double mat will 

g 2 



44 



ON THE CULTURE 



be sufficient ; and after that, if the weather is 
intense, increase the covering, by adding hay to 
the thickness of six or nine inches, with a mat 
over it. Air should be admitted night and day^ 
according to the state of the weather ; but they 
may be closed down for about an hour, before 
covering up, after they are a fortnight old. 

The plants should be ridged out young, at 
least when they are a month old ; but be very 
particular in having the fruiting-frame perfectly 
sweet before they are placed in it, as it is much 
better to keep them in the pots a week, or even 
a fortnight, beyond the time, than to ridge them 
out before the bed is in a proper condition. 

Be careful in keeping a good heat ; in having 
the lining applied in proper time; and in well 
wrapping them up. The lining will be required 
when they are three weeks old at the back and 
front. It should be two feet wide about half 
way up the bed, and lined with litter to the width 
of six inches, for the purpose of keeping the lining 



OF EARLY CUCUMBERS. 45 

in a proper condition: wrap it up also within 
three inches of the top, drawing it in gradually 
to about eighteen inches wide. With the ex- 
ception of the foregoing directions, the method 
of treatment must be exactly the same as given 
in the Seed-bed for October. 



ON THE 

MANAGEMENT 

REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE 

OF THE 

Unit ®ucumtor. 



The proper time to sow for late cucumbers, 
that is, such as are grown in boxes and lights, 
and have no necessity for linings, is from the 
middle of March to the middle of April; and 
after that time seed may be put in for the 
hand-glass. 

Those that are sown in the middle of March 
will require stronger beds than those sown a 
fortnight or three weeks afterwards, and should 
be made from two feet six inches to three feet 
high; while the latter will not require beds 
higher than two feet. 



OF THE LATE CUCUMBER. 



47 



Let a trench be dug the size of the frame, 
about eighteen inches deep, and if the soil is 
light and rich that is thrown out, the bed may 
be formed of it ; but if a strong loam it will not 
answer the purpose. 

As soon as the bed is made tread it down 
well, make it even, and let it have about six 
inches fall from the back to the front ; then place 
on the boxes and light ; and when the heat 
rises, admit from one to two inches of air. In 
about a week it will be necessary to put the 
mould in for the hills in the proportion of a 
barrow-full to a light. This must be levelled 
about an inch all over the bed to prevent the 
rank steam from injuring the plants. On the 
following day they may be ridged out, when the 
mould must be pressed with the hands close 
down round the roots of the plants; and water 
applied, which should be at the same time 
sprinkled regularly all over the bed. Add now 
plenty of air, night and day, until the bed 
becomes perfectly sweet, which is generally the 
case in about a week ; after which they may be 
shut down at night. 



48 ON THE CULTURE 

Let the topping be the same as directed for 
the Seed-bed in October ; if the soil is light and 
rich, have a bank on the outside about a foot 
or eighteen inches wide, and as high, or even 
higher than the bottom of the box. This will 
prove a great support to the plants ; be the 
means of producing an abundant crop of fruit ; 
and obviate the necessity of laying ; which must 
otherwise be the case if this plan is not adopted, 
or the boxes are unusually large. Should laying, 
however, be preferred, great attention must be 
paid to it, and the same method adopted as 
prescribed for the early cucumber. 

Particular care is requisite in the culture of the 
late cucumber to preserve it from the canker ; 
the best means that can be adopted to prevent 
this injury is to keep them thin of vine, and 
always apply soft water. This should be given 
in the morning, or, if not then convenient, never 
later than three o'clock in the afternoon, when 
the vines will have an opportunity of drying 
before night : a fine day should always be taken 
advantage of for this purpose, which will tend 
considerably to accelerate their growth. Admit 



OF THE LATE CUCUMBER. 



49 



a double quantity of air for a quarter of an hour 
before watering ; and while the nights continue 
cold, be careful in keeping them covered up. 
In some seasons, when the weather is inclement, 
it will be necessary to observe this even until 
Midsummer. 

By strict attention to the foregoing directions' 
no danger need be apprehended from the canker, 
as it generally proceeds from a cold chill ; suf- 
fering the plants to grow too thick of vine, which 
keeps them continually moist; and not admitting 
a sufficient quantity of air necessary to harden 
them. 

In ridging out the plants, put two in small 
lights and three in larger ones ; and when the 
roots appear through the hills, add mould to 
them ; observing, that they will require mould- 
ing up much quicker than those grown at the 
early season : in fact, after they have been 
ridged out about a fortnight or three weeks, it 
will be necessary to mould them up fully. 

H 



50 



ON THE CULTURE 



If the weather is fine, from one to two gallons 
of water for each light will be necessary every 
two or three days. 

Keep them pegged and laid about once a fort- 
night ; and be particular also in having them 
thin of vine, topped at the first joint; then 
allowing them to run four, and afterwards 
topping them again at the first, as before 
mentioned in the January sown plants. By 
observing these directions, a good crop of fruit 
may be ensured, which will be ready to cut in 
about a month or five weeks after they have 
been ridged out. 



\ 



ON THE 

MANAGEMENT 

REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE 

OF THE 



The best time to sow for the hand-glass 
cucumber is from the middle of April to the 
beginning of May ; though they may be sown 
from the tenth of April until the middle of 
May ; and the plants may be grown in the early 
cucumber or melon beds. 

When they are potted off, put three plants in 
each pot, being particular in not filling them 
more than three parts full, as they are very liable 
at this time of the year to draw up long in the 
stem. Merely cover the roots with mould at 
first ; in the course of two or three days add a 

h2 



52 



ON THE CULTURE OF 



little more ; and in about a week fill up the pots 
to the brim. 

It is necessary to give them as much air as 
possible ; and to have them placed at the back 
of the bed, as near the glass as convenient. They 
must be well supplied with water, and let them 
be topped at the first joint. 

By this mode of treatment, you may have 
strong stuggy plants, fit to put under the hand- 
glass in three weeks ; at all events, they should 
not be kept in the pots longer than a month, as 
there is a probability, if that time is exceeded, 
of their being stinted in the growth. 

The soil best calculated to ridge them out 
in, is a light rich earth. If the soil is of a strong 
loamy nature, add some leaf mould or rotten 
dung to it, and mix it up well together. 

Dig a trench about a foot in depth,, and three 
feet wide, and let the bed be made up about a 
foot above the level, that is, two feet from the 



THE HAND-GLASS CUCUMBER. 



53 



bottom of the trench ; tread it down well, level 
it, and apply some water if it is dry ; then put 
the mould on, and let it be dug a spit deep, and 
eighteen inches wide on each side of the trench ; 
afterwards put some dung or leaf mould on, and 
digit in. Level the mould down, so that the 
bed will be about six feet wide, and nine or ten 
inches deep, taking care to leave it a little 
higher in the middle, where the dung is placed, 
in order that the mould may not settle, and 
become lower in the centre, which will have a 
tendency to injure the plants by absorbing the 
water, which is most required at the outsides. 

It is an excellent plan, if the ground is dis- 
engaged two or three months previous to the time 
it is wanted for the cucumber bed, to mark it 
out six feet wide, and put in six inches of dung 
or leaf mould, and lay it up in ridges of two feet 
six inches in width, and a foot in depth. When 
wanted for use, level it down, and dig a trench 
three feet wide for the dung, levelling it as before 
directed. This method, if it can be conveniently 
attended to, is certainly preferable to the other, 



54 



ON THE CULTURE OF 



as it allows an opportunity of incorporating the 
dung and mould together. If hot dung cannot 
be easily obtained, it may be dispensed with, 
provided the seed is not sown earlier than the 
month of May. 

Let the ground be ridged up as before directed, 
and when wanted for use, level it down ; then 
mark out six feet wide beds for each, and three 
feet alleys; afterwards place the line to the 
middle of the ridge, and mark out three feet six 
inches, which must be the distance from the 
centre of each glass. Take out two spades- 
ful of the mould, level it on the ridge, 
and put one spadeful of light rich earth in 
its place, for the purpose of receiving the 
seed. If the natural soil is light and rich, 
take out one spadeful, making it round and 
hollow, about eight inches wide ; then sow 
the seed from eight to twelve under each 
glass. If the mould is dry, apply water to the 
seed, place the glasses on, and shut them down 
close, observing as they become dry. to sprinkle 
them with water. 



THE HAND-GLASS CUCUMBERS. 55 

After the seed has been up about a week, it 
will be necessary to thin them out, in the pro- 
portion of six plants to each glass ; and in 
the week following reduce them to three, which 
is the proper number to be grown together 
finally for a crop. When they are thus divided, 
put some light mould round the stems of the 
plants, which should be done at two different 
times, allowing a week to elapse between each 
application, and filling up the hollow that is left. 

As soon as they have made two rough leaves, 
top them at the second joint. This is a plan 
which may be adopted with success. Hot dung 
is also of great advantage, as it will cause them 
to come into bearing nearly a month sooner than 
would otherwise be the case. 

After the plants have been topped, as above 
directed,, let them run to six joints, and then top 
the magain, when they will show fruit, which 
may be topped at the first joint. If the hand- 
glasses are large, fruit will be ready to cut very 
early. 



56 



ON THE CULTURE 



Be particular in not suffering them to rufi 
to too much vine ; six joints is quite sufficient at 
the firsthand afterwards always keep them topped 
at the first or second joint. By strict attention 
to this mode of treatment* you may ensure a 
more abundant crop, and much finer fruit, than 
can be calculated upon from the usual method 
of suffering the vine to grow to a considerable 
length, which tends materially to weaken and 
exhaust the plant. 

Let them be kept under the glasses as long as 
possible, without danger of injuring them, admit- 
ting a small quantity of air in the day-time, 
when the weather is warm, by means of a piece 
of wood, in the form of a wedge, about seven 
inches long, five inches wide, flat, and about 
three inches at the top. This will enable you to 
rise or fall the glass according to the quantity of 
air necessary to be admitted. 

Before placing the vine outside the glasses, 
it will be necessary to admit a larger portion of 
air, both night and day, for three or four days, 



OF THE HAND-GLASS CUCUMBER. 57 



in order to harden the plants ; then mulch the 
bed all over with litter, which will cause the 
fruit to be kept clean, and the roots moist, an 
essential requisite in the culture of cucumbers. 

Though moisture is so extremely necessary, 
yet at all times in the application of water you 
must be regulated by the temperature of the 
season. If the weather is hot and dry when they 
come into full bearing, from three to four gallons 
of water will be required to each glass every 
two or three days, if the soil is light, but 
if of a strong loamy nature, less will be 
sufficient. 

Lay out the vines regular, peg them down, and 
place four half bricks, that is, one to each corner, 
under the frame of the glass ; or another method 
may be adopted, in raising the glass to the south 
by means of a piece of stick, about the thickness 
of a broom-stick, a foot in length, with three 
notches cut in it, about two inches apart, for the 
purpose of resting the glass u|)on. This plan 
is far preferable to the former, in materially 

i 



58 



ON THE CULTURE, &C. 



accelerating the growth of the fruit, by prevent- 
ing too great a current of air ; besides possessing 
the advantage of easier access to the plants, 
when there is a necessity for examining them. 
It is, however, requisite when this method is 
adopted, that the ridges should always front the 
south. 

If the above directions are strictly attended 
to, and the season is in any degree favorable, a 
plentiful crop of fine fruit may be expected. 



DIMENSIONS 

OF THE 

BOXES AND LIGHTS 

FOB 

aEatlg antJ late Cttcum6et;& 



Three-light Boxes for October sowing. 

The boxes should be made of good seasoned 
deal, one inch and a half thick, ten feet seven 
inches long, four feet three inches wide, and one 
foot eight inches deep at the back, and eleven 
inches in the front. The bars to be three 
inches wide, to have two narrow slips two inches 
in height, and one slip at each end. The bars 
to be fluted on each side of the slips, with oak 
corners, five inches wide. 

i2 



60 DIMENSIONS OF BOXES AND LIGHTS. 

The lights to be four feet three inches and a 
half long, three feet six inches wide, and the 
back rail two inches and three quarters wide ; 
the front to be three inches, and the sides two 
inches and a half ; with three bars, rounded off 
to a point inside, three quarters of an inch 
wide. To be made of good seasoned deal, 
and to have horns both in the back and front. 
The squares must be formed of strong crown 
glass, leaded and cemented ; let there be five 
in length, the one in front being five inches long. 
A small iron bar must be passed in the middle, 
under the lead of each light, which must also 
have iron handles, 

One-light Box for October sowing. 

This must be in length four feet eight inches, 
three feet seven inches wide, one foot eight inches 
deep at the back, and eleven inches in the front. 

The lights to be half an inch longer than the 
box; and in all other respects the same as those 
before described. 



DIMENSIONS OF BOXES AND LIGHTS. 61 

For January sowing. 

The boxes to be ten feet seven inches long, 
four feet eight inches wide, one foot eight inches 
deep at the back, and eleven inches in the front. 
The bars and slips the same as for October. 

The lights to be four feet eight inches and a 
half long, and three feet six inches wide, with 
four bars, six squares long, rabitted, puttied, and 
a small piece of lead across to every square. In 
other respects to be the same as those for 
October. 

For Spring sowing. 

The boxes to be one foot two inches deep at 
the back, and eight inches in the front. In other 
respects, the boxes as well as the lights for 
spring sowing, must be the same as those directed 
for the January seed-bed. 

Both boxes and lights should have three coats 
of paint, white inside, and a dark lead colour on 
the outside. 



THE 



ON THE CULTURE 

OP 

EARLY AND LATE 

JWdott. 



ON THE 



MANAGEMENT 

REQUIRED IN THE CULTURE 

OF 

tatty am late jttelott& 



For early melons have three loads of dung for 
a three-light box ; but if you have previously 
grown early cucumbers, the old linings will be 
useful for the melon bed, by mixing a proportion 
of one half of fresh dung with it. This, in 
fact, will be better than all fresh, as it requires 
only once turning, whereas new dung should be 
turned twice. In gentlemens' gardens there is 
generally an abundance of leaves, and sometimes 
a scarcity of dung; when such is the case, 
leaves, mixed with an equal proportion of 
dung, may be used very successfully for the 

K 



66 



ON THE CULTURE 



early melon ; and for the late one all leaves, from 
trees or shrubs, will answer the purpose, parti- 
cularly where there are brick pits. 

Let the dung be put together for a week, and 
lay the same time before it is turned. Be care- 
ful that the bottom is dry where the bed is 
built ; raise it with mould or road sand to the 
height of six or eight inches, and allow the 
bottom to be eight or nine inches longer and 
wider than the box, so that when the bed is 
made, it may be drawn up in a gradual manner 
to about three or four inches wider than the box, 
observing at the same time to beat it well down 
with a fork. Let it be about three feet nine 
inches at the back by three feet six inches in the 
front; should there, however, happen to be a 
scarcity of dung, a foot of strawberry or aspara- 
gus halm, fagots, or pieces of wood, or, indeed, 
some of eaeh, may be added at the bottom of 
the bed. 

If the dung is dry, apply water to it, that it 
may be properly moistened ; and after the bed 



OF THE MELON. 



67 



is formed, let it be again watered, as the plants 
will not thrive so well, nor the linings have the 
proper effect, if the bed is kept too dry. 

The bed should be made three weeks or a 
month before the plants are put into it, and 
must be perfectly sweet before they are ridged 
out. When the bed is in a proper condition, 
hollow it out in the middle to the depth of four 
inches, and put a large barrow-full of mould to 
each hill, pressing it down close with the hand 
about a foot deep. 

The day before you intend to ridge out, put 
a pot of plants in the bed, to prove whether it is 
sweet, which, if you ascertain to be the case, and 
the box is large, ridge them out, three plants to 
a light ; but if small two will be sufficient. 

The proper time to sow the seed for an early 
crop is about the middle of January ; and the 
early cucumber bed will do very well for the 
purpose. Those sown at this time will be fit to 
cut in the first or second week of May ; but if 

k2 



68 ON THE CULTURE 

there is no particular necessity for fruit so early, 
the beginning of February is a preferable season 
to sow, when they will be ready to cut by the 
latter end of May or the beginning of June. 

The Early Cantaloupe is the best sort for an 
early crop. Let them be sown in leaf mould, 
about eighteen or twenty seeds in a forty-eight 
size pot ; immediately apply water, and plunge 
the pots in a good sharp heat. As soon as the 
seed makes its appearance, which will be in the 
course of about three days, if it is good, un- 
plunge the pots and give them a little water. 
In two or three days more they will be fit to 
pot off, which ought always to be done when 
about a week old, as they strike much more 
freely when potted off young. Let the soil for 
potting off the plants be half leaf mould, and 
half light loam or bog earth. 

The best season to sow for a second crop is the 
beginning of March, and well calculated for the 
Stroud Rock, Scarlet Rock, White-seeded Rock, 
Green Flesh, and, in fact, many others of nearly 



OF THE MELON. 



69 



the same description, though under different 
names, which they have derived from those gar- 
deners who have cultivated them by impregnating 
one with the other. It is by no means, however, 
advisable to sow the Black Rock before the 
latter end of March, as it is only calculated for 
a late melon, and should be grown in large 
boxes, two plants to a light. This, though a 
fine looking fruit, and well flavoured, will not 
suit those whose object is to produce a large 
quantity ; for, by attempting to grow more than 
two in a light, they will not rock, nor arrive to 
any degree of perfection.* 

The Stroud Rock is a particular favourite with 
the Author, who has produced fruit of this kind 
upwards of seven pounds in weight, though the 
common size varies from three to five. This 
description of melon is not generally known, 
although it is a fine looking and excellent 



* The Author has in his possession a sort of this descrip- 
tion, from which he has produced fruit upwards of ten pounds 
in weight. 



70 



ON THE CULTURE 



flavoured fruit : it possesses a thin skin, orange- 
coloured flesh, and the rind is very dark. 

The Scarlet Rock is, however, the finest 
flavoured melon that can be produced, though 
small in its growth, seldom exceeding the weight 
of three pounds, and commonly from one to 
two. The flesh is of a deep scarlet colour, and 
it is rather inclined to rock. 

The Early Cantaloupe is the most productive 
melon in bearing ; but in order to obtain them 
good flavoured no more than one fruit must be 
suffered to swell on a plant at a time, except the 
lights are large, when two may be allowed, that 
is, six in a light : but if, however, the plants are 
confined to one fruit, a second crop may be 
obtained. 

The White-seeded Rock is a very fine melon in 
appearance, and much approved of by some 
gardeners for its qualities in ripening early for a 
rock ; but it will not, however, keep long, soon 
loses its flavour, and the colour changes very 



OF THE MELON. 



71 



yellow ; it is also extremely tender in its growth, 
and very inferior in flavour to the Stroud Rock ; 
neither is it so handsome a fruit, so well-flavoured, 
nor does it ripen any sooner. 

The Green Flesh is a fine flavoured melon, 
with a thin skin, but generally small in" its 
dimensions. The Author has, however, a sort 
of this kind that will grow from three to five 
pounds in weight. 

The Black Rock melon should not be sown 
later than the latter end of May ; the Stroud 
and Scarlet Rock may be sown as late as the 
tenth of J une ; and the Early Cantaloupe about 
the twentieth of June. 

In order to produce fine fruit, be particular in 
having a good depth of earth, from a foot to 
eighteen inches will be necessary. When the 
hills are made for the very early melons, one 
large barrow-full of mould will be sufficient, 
which must be pressed down close with the hand. 
Those that are sown in March will require one 



72 



ON THE CULTURE 



barrow-full and a half, and those afterwards two. 
In applying this mould, put one barrow-full in 
first, and tread it down ; then add the remainder, 
and press it close down with the hand. Procure 
some good holding loam of a greasy nature, 
such as is generally found in the marshes, 
which is the most preferable kind of soil for 
melons, and let it be well weathered before using. 
It ought to lay twelve, or at the least six months. 
Mix this with a sixth proportion of good rotten 
dung or leaf mould, and let it be turned over two 
or three different times, that it may be properly 
sweetened and incorporated together ; taking 
care, however, that it is not broken too fine. 

The mould intended for the hills of the first 
crop should be lighter than for those grown 
afterwards, being composed of light loam, mixed 
with a sixth part of leaf mould or rotten dung ; or 
an equal proportion of stiff loam and leaf mould. 
As mould is added after the plants have been 
ridged out, let it be trod down close, and take 
particular care that the roots are never exposed 
to the sun, but as soon as they make their 



OF THE MELON. 



73 



appearance through the hills, increase the 
mould, in the proportion of a barrow-full to 
each hill for the early melon, and two, or even 
more, to the later one. 

In watering the plants, as the season advances, 
you must be regulated by the composition of the 
soil, and the temperature of the weather. If the 
soil is stiff, it will not require half the quantity 
that should be applied to light mould. If the 
weather is warm, much water is necessary, but 
if cold very little should be given, as too much 
moisture at that time will create the canker. 

Heat being materially requisite for preserving 
the growth of the melon, great care must be 
taken in keeping the bed well supplied with 
linings, which must be added until the weather 
becomes fine and settled ; they will generally be 
required until the beginning of June ; but if the 
season is even then cold, it is better to continue 
them longer. 

In covering up the early plants, at the first 

L 



74 



ON THE CULTURE 



ridging out, a single or double mat will be suffi- 
cient ; after that add a little hay, and increase it 
if the weather is cold. This should be continued 
until the middle of June, or later, if the season 
is unfavourable. 

Many gardeners being unacquainted with the 
proper mode of training and topping the melon, 
and thereby finding it extremely difficult to set 
the fruit, the Author will here give the method 
always pursued by himself, which, if strictly 
observed, will be found to be attended with far 
less trouble, and more certain in its effect than 
the plan generally adopted. 

When the plants are potted off, top them at 
the second break ; that is, let them grow to two 
leaves ; then take out the break, which in some 
kinds is in the centre, and in others in the 
second leaf. If you require the fruit very fine, 
two plants will be sufficient in a light ; but 
should there be no particular necessity in that 
respect, and the lights are sufficiently capacious, 
three may be matured extremely well. 



OF THE MELON. 



75 



Have four runners to a light; that is, if two 
plants, two runners to each ; but if three, two 
runners to one plant, and one to each of the 
other two. If the lights are large, they may be 
suffered to run to eight joints ; but if, on the 
contrary, the lights are confined, six will be 
sufficient ; and all other breaks that come out 
at home, with the first break that issues from the 
runners, should be effectually taken away, in 
order that the others may derive strength and 
nourishment. As soon as they make the first 
breaks from the runners, which by some are 
denominated cross bars, top them at the first 
joint, and in most sorts they will generally show 
fruit ; but if it should so happen that this does 
not succeed, top them again, when they are 
certain of showing fruit at the second. 

If they are impregnated in the same manner 
as prescribed in the directions for the cucumber, 
there will be no difficulty in setting the fruit, 
which will also show much bolder, and possess 
greater strength when topped in close. 

l2 



76 



ON THE CULTURE 



Every description of melon will be brought to 
a greater degree of perfection, by being suffered 
to swell off on the first shows, which can alone 
be effected by keeping them thin of vine: if 
this is particularly attended to, no apprehension 
need be entertained of the fruit being small or 
delicate, as, in proportion to the quantity of vine, 
so it decreases the strength and vigour of the 
plants. 

Great care is necessary in watering the plants : 
when they are young, it should be applied with 
a rose; but as soon as the runners are extended all 
over the bed, that maybe dispensed with. If the 
weather is dull, a small quantity of water will be 
sufficient ; and if very fine, more must be applied 
carefully without a rose, which will be found 
beneficial in causing them to set more freely. # An 

* As the season advances, and the sun becomes powerful, 
it will be necessary to shade them from the extreme violence 
of the heat. Mats are generally made use of, but the Author 
considers evergreen boughs far preferable, as the former 
entirely precludes the sun, whereas the latter is beneficial to 



OF THE MELON. 



77 



insufficiency of moisture is an error too prevalent 
with many gardeners in the culture of the melon, 
and indeed the inferiority of their fruit, both in 
weight and flavour, may be greatly attributed to 
want of judgment in this particular; for if the 
plants are kept thin of vine, the necessity of 
which has been before stated, they are of course 
more open to the air, and the sun has greater 
power in drying up the soil, consequently the 
plants will become exhausted, and the fruit will 
ripen before its growth is properly matured. 

The Early Cantaloupe melon, if left to its full 
time, will be five weeks from the period of setting 
before it ripens; the Stroud about six; the Scarlet 
seven ; and the Black Rock upwards of seven ; 
there will, however, be some difference between 
those forced early with bottom heat, and those 
grown late ; the early ones coming to perfection 
three or four days, or even a week before the other. 

the plants, in admitting it partially. This will be generally 
requisite from about ten until two ; and at that time, in 
proportion to the degree of shade, a larger quantity of air 
must be admitted. 



78 



ON THE CULTURE 



The proper time to sow for under-ground 
melons, that is, such as are grown without linings, 
is from the twenty-fifth of March to the twentieth 
of June; observing, at the same time, that 
those which are sown in March will require 
stronger beds than those that are set three weeks 
or a month later. 

The beds for the first should be formed of 
good dung, well worked, and three feet in height ; 
whereas the latter will only require two feet. 
Dig a trench the size of the frame, about eighteen 
inches deep ; and if the soil is a strong good 
holding loam, it will answer the purpose for any 
description of rock melon ; they requiring a 
strong soil to bring them to perfection ; a light 
loam, however, may be used for the Early Can- 
taloupe. 

As soon as the bed is formed, tread it down 
well, make it even, and let it have about six 
inches fall from the back to the front ; then put 
on the boxes and lights, and when the heat rises 
to its proper height, which will be in the course 



OF THE MELON. 



79 



of three or four days, put the mould in for the 
hills, in the proportion of two barrows-full to a 
light, levelling it about an inch all over the bed, 
for the purpose of preventing the rank steam 
from injuring the plants. On the following day 
they may be ridged out, and watered, being very 
particular in sprinkling the bed regularly over. 
Admit air freely both night and day at first, 
until the bed is purified, and becomes perfectly 
sweet; this will be the case in about a week, 
when they may be shut down at night. Let the 
topping and training be the same as directed for 
the early ones. 

If the soil is strong, and of a binding nature, a 
bank may be made on the outside, at the back 
and front, about a foot or eighteen inches wide, 
which will prove a great support to the fruit, 
and cause them to grow much larger and finer ; 
but if the soil is light and rich, by no means 
make a bank, nor ridge out the plants in it, as 
mould of that description is not at all adapted 
for the production of fine melons. The only 
one that will in any degree thrive in light rich 



80 



ON THE CULTURE 



soil is the Early Cantaloupe ; but any kind of the 
rock description will never come to perfection. 

ft is here necessary to observe that it is 
impossible ever to obtain fine or good flavoured 
fruit, if more than one is suffered to swell on a 
plant at a time, as that support which is essential 
and onght to be directed to one object, by 
becoming divided, is insufficient for the per- 
fection of more, and naturally weakens the fruit, 
and renders it of little or no value. 

Many horticulturists experience much diffi- 
culty from the effects of the red spider and 
canker in melons ; the former being caused by 
keeping them too dry, and the latter arising from 
too much moisture. In order to avoid these 
evils, the following directions should be parti- 
cularly attended to. When the weather is hot, 
or there is a strong bottom heat, it is necessary 
to be free in the application of water, especially 
round the sides of the boxes ; for when the 
plants cover the bed, it will not be requisite to 
give any in the centre over the stems. 



OF THE MELON. 



81 



When the plants cover the surface of the bed 
always water without a rose, observing that it 
should be invariably done in the morning, and 
when the weather is fine, so as to allow the vines 
to get dry before night, which will not be the 
case, if it is applied in the afternoon ; and should 
the following day be dull, and perhaps continue 
so for three or four, the vines will remain weU 
and then there is every probability of their 
getting the canker, which entirely proceeds from 
a cold chill, created by unnecessary moisture. 

The canker is a very destructive disorder, and 
extremely difficult to eradicate. The only means 
that can be adopted, or likely to prove beneficial, 
is to keep the plants as dry as possible, and to 
give a good heat; being careful, at the same 
time, not to run into the other extreme, and 
create the red spider. If, however, the plants 
are kept thin of vine, and water is applied in 
the manner before directed, no fear need be 
entertained of either of the above disorders. 



M 



DIMENSIONS 



OF THE 

BOXES AND LIGHTS 

FOB 

€avly am> late jttelott& 



Boxes and Lights for the first early Melons. 

The wood-work should be of the same thick- 
ness, as those directed for early cucumbers, 
and the boxes of the same length ; but two feet 
deep at the back, five feet wide, and one foot 
three inches in the front. 

For Melons sown from the middle of February 
until the latter end of March, grown with 
linings. 

The boxes and lights to be the same in thick- 
ness, length, and depth; five feet six inches 

m 2 



84 DIMENSIONS OF BOXES AND LIGHTS. 

wide ; four bars to a light, with a small iron 
bar across the middle, in the inside, under the 
lead- work. 

For late Melons, grown ivithout Linings. 

The boxes and lights to be the same as those 
before described, with the exception of being 
eighteen inches deep at the back, by eleven 
inches in the front. 

Brick Pits. 

Let these be formed of nine inch brick- work, 
sunk one foot under-ground ; five feet high at 
the back, by three feet six inches in the front, 
from the bottom; and six feet wide in the 
inside. Let the lights be three feet eight inches 
wide. 

THE END. 



PRINTED FY S. CAVE, ISLINGTON GR BEN. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

□DDDT:Lb73D4 



